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奢侈品产业虽常被视为非必需,但它对欧洲制造业与就业至关重要:LVMH、Richemont、Hermès、Kering 这四大集团去年合计创造超过 1300 亿美元(约 130bn)销售,雇用约 32 万人;然而,产业成长率已由三、四年前远高于 20% 降至如今接近 0%,显示所谓衰退不能只用景气循环解释。

文章指出多重内在矛盾正在侵蚀长期增长:中国曾被视为关键成长市场,但其国家控制与民族主义政治使高端消费承压,且中国买家愈来愈转向本土品牌;同时,2021 至 2022 年间许多品牌把价格当成短期营收工具,而非长期价值讯号,与奢侈品约 70% 的毛利率与 Veblen 商品逻辑相冲突。

Bain 估计 2022 至 2024 年产业流失了八分之一顾客、约 5000 万人,显示连顶端消费者也对被误导敏感;更根本的问题是「大众稀缺」式奢华的矛盾:过度曝光、店面过多、社群媒体滥用,以及像 850 美元 T 恤这类既不够排他也不够令人向往的商品,都在削弱品牌魔力。产业要重回成长,必须重建价格架构、缩减过度扩张,并更精准地经营 aspirational 客群。

Luxury is often treated as trivial, yet the sector matters economically: the four biggest groups — LVMH, Richemont, Hermès and Kering — generated more than $130bn in sales and employed about 320,000 people last year. Growth, which was well above 20% three or four years ago, is now roughly flat, so the slowdown cannot be dismissed as a normal cyclical dip alone.

The article argues the deeper problem is internal contradiction. China, long seen as a crucial growth market, combines state control with nationalism, making elite foreign consumption politically awkward and encouraging shoppers to shift to local brands. At the same time, many houses treated 2021-22 pricing as a quarterly-revenue lever, even though luxury relies on price as a long-run signal of value; with gross margins around 70%, mispricing can damage the narrative.

Bain estimates the industry lost one-eighth of its customers, or 50mn people, from 2022 to 2024 as brands overfocused on the ultra-wealthy. The broader challenge is “mass exclusivity”: too much exposure, too many stores, and products like an $850 T-shirt weaken exclusivity and aspiration at once. To restore growth, luxury groups must rebuild price architecture, manage visibility more carefully, and treat aspirational buyers as a core segment, not a side hustle.

2026-05-22 (Friday) · 5c641afb568f36e35393e7b983bfa440596f0e80