2nd Street 是日本一家二手服饰连锁店,其门市数量已超越 Uniqlo,截至三月底拥有 931 家门市,相较 Uniqlo 截至去年八月的 794 家,并订下 2035 年拓展至 1,500 家门市的目标。该连锁店的崛起反映了日本消费者的文化转变——这群向来以偏好全新品牌商品著称的消费者,如今正因对价格敏感的 Z 世代和 Alpha 世代购物者面临数十年来首次持续性通膨而产生改变。过去四年间,通膨持续超过薪资成长,加上日圆走弱使欧洲时尚品牌更难负担,消费者已将购买二手服饰从小众嗜好转变为主流消费习惯。
全球二手服饰市场正展现显著动能。根据 ThredUp 的报告,美国市场预计至 2030 年将达到近 790 亿美元(约新台币 2.5 兆元),而 McKinsey & Co. 预测全球二手市场至 2027 年的成长速度将高达全新时尚市场的三倍。日本的转售市场因拥有 1980 至 1990 年代经济繁荣期间累积的大量奢侈品库存而格外突出,据 NLI Research Institute 统计,日本家庭持有约 91 兆日圆(约 5,700 亿美元,合每人约 71.5 万日圆)闲置超过一年的物品。时尚类占最大比例达 34%,其次为休闲与运动用品占 22%,娱乐类物品占 21%。2nd Street 上一财年销售额约达 1,550 亿日圆,年增 18%,其母公司 Geo Holdings Corp. 市值为 800 亿日圆,并计划更名为 2nd Retailing 以彰显该连锁店的成功。
日本大型企业正积极抢占二手市场商机。Itochu Corp.(伊藤忠商事)收购了 BookOff Group Holdings 的股份,并计划利用旗下约 16,000 家 FamilyMart 便利商店据点作为二手商品的收件站。日本政府亦已拥抱此趋势,目标于 2030 年前将二手市场规模扩大近三分之一至 4.6 兆日圆,并期望届时 50% 的国民每年至少买卖一件二手物品——较 2024 年上升约 9 个百分点。与此同时,Muji(无印良品)等零售商已开始接受消费者以旧物换取会员点数。资深高管 Masanori Takai 指出,门市严格的清洁与品质标准有助于吸引过去排斥二手商品的年长消费者,而十几岁及二十多岁的年轻顾客则日益将 2nd Street 视为一个不断更新的衣柜,透过频繁买卖来尝试不同风格。
2nd Street, a secondhand-clothing chain in Japan, has surpassed Uniqlo in store count, with 931 locations as of the end of March compared to Uniqlo's 794 as of last August, and has set a target of 1,500 stores by 2035. The chain's rise reflects a cultural shift among Japanese consumers historically known for favoring pristine, brand-name goods, driven largely by price-sensitive Generation Z and Gen Alpha shoppers navigating the country's first sustained bout of inflation in decades. As inflation has outpaced wage growth over the past four years and a weaker yen has made European fashion brands less attainable, consumers have turned the pursuit of preowned clothing from a niche hobby into a mainstream habit.
The global secondhand-apparel market is experiencing significant momentum. In the US, the market is projected to reach nearly $79 billion by 2030, according to ThredUp, while McKinsey & Co. forecasts the global secondhand market will grow up to three times faster than firsthand fashion through 2027. Japan's resale market stands out for its vast inventory of luxury goods accumulated during the economic boom of the 1980s and '90s, and Japanese households hold an estimated ¥91 trillion (approximately $570 billion, or roughly ¥715,000 per person) in items unused for at least a year, according to NLI Research Institute. Fashion accounts for the largest share at 34%, followed by leisure and sports equipment at 22% and entertainment items at 21%. 2nd Street's sales for the last fiscal year reached approximately ¥155 billion, up 18% year-over-year, as part of Geo Holdings Corp., which has a market capitalization of ¥80 billion and plans to rename itself 2nd Retailing to reflect the chain's success.
Major Japanese corporations are moving to capitalize on the secondhand boom. Itochu Corp. acquired a stake in BookOff Group Holdings and plans to use its roughly 16,000 FamilyMart convenience-store locations as drop-off points for used goods. The Japanese government has also embraced the trend, aiming to expand the secondhand market by nearly a third to ¥4.6 trillion by 2030 and targeting 50% of the population buying or selling at least one secondhand item annually by that year — up about 9 percentage points from 2024. Meanwhile, retailers like Muji have begun accepting used items in exchange for loyalty points. Senior executive Masanori Takai notes that the stores' strict cleanliness and quality standards have helped attract older consumers who previously shunned used goods, while younger shoppers in their teens and 20s increasingly treat 2nd Street as an evolving closet, regularly buying and selling to experiment with different styles.