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奢华食材出现「下沉」:鱼子酱进鸡块、松露进超市与连锁餐点、和牛进汉堡;但螃蟹反而更像新一代奢侈品。供应受政治与生态冲击,帝王蟹批发已到每磅 70–85 美元;零售端单只 10 磅挪威红帝王蟹到府可超过 1,200 美元。供应商预期 5 年内批发价可能突破每磅 100 美元。

纽约高端餐饮把螃蟹做成定价锚点:Mekumi 推出每位 888 美元的蟹主题 omakase(不含酒),主角公雪蟹 2 天从日本运到纽约,单只批发最高约 675 美元;每晚 8 位客人需 3 只,套餐 18–20 道,12 月全满、1 月尚有名额。更稀有的「幻之蟹」Taiza gani 因仅 5 艘船可捕,Muku 连两晚供应的每位 1,295 美元菜单迅速售罄。Yamada 剥取 1 只 2 磅毛蟹蟹肉需约 45 分钟,出现在 295 美元、10 道的冬季菜单中。

全美各地把「螃蟹溢价」推到不同场景:洛杉矶 Kinkan 每周 2 次、11 道 250 美元;旧金山 Angler 有 100 美元的隐藏蟹饭。Semma 建议预订两人份 145 美元、重 1–1.5 磅的整蟹;芝加哥 Nadu 的蟹料理有 135/185 美元两种规格,约每周 15 位客人点。纽约 Octo 的 8 磅活帝王蟹近例为 850 美元、可供 5–6 人;拉斯维加斯 Carbone Riviera 帝王蟹每磅 175–200 美元,大只总价可超过 2,000 美元。

Luxury ingredients are “mainstreaming” (caviar on nuggets, truffle in supermarket items, wagyu in burgers), yet crab is becoming the new high-status marker. Supply hit by political and ecological disruption has pushed king crab to $70–$85 per pound wholesale; a single live 10‑pound Norwegian red king crab can cost consumers $1,200+ delivered. A top supplier expects wholesale to exceed $100 per pound within five years.

New York fine dining uses crab as a pricing anchor. Mekumi offers an $888-per-person crab omakase (excluding drinks) for a few winter weeks; its male snow crab reaches about $675 each wholesale and arrives from Japan in two days—three crabs per night for eight diners—across 18–20 courses. December is sold out, January remains. Ultra-rare Taiza “phantom crab” (only five boats allowed) drove Muku’s $1,295 menus for two nights to sell out fast. At Yamada, extracting meat from a 2‑pound crab can take 45 minutes, within a $295, 10-course menu.

Across the US, crab premiums show up in set menus and signature dishes: Kinkan in Los Angeles runs an 11-course $250 dinner twice weekly; Angler in San Francisco has a $100 off-menu crab rice. Semma’s preorder is $145 for two featuring a 1–1.5‑pound crab; Chicago’s Nadu offers $135/$185 sizes with about 15 orders per week. Octo served an 8‑pound live king crab for $850 (feeds 5–6), while Las Vegas’s Carbone Riviera prices king crab at $175–$200 per pound, making large orders $2,000+.

2025-12-24 (Wednesday) · ac537a3c2e51d84fee72a19bdc741f46dff299f9