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在2026年2月28日的报道中,Patagonia 在西班牙和法国沿岸的 Bay of Biscay 渔场长期供应的大西洋鲭鱼曾被视为可持续样本,但因捕捞过度导致鱼群被压缩,迫使其经历数月缺货后改向南太平洋智利海域改售鲐鲭鱼。文中指出,罐装鱼是动物蛋白中碳足迹较低的类别:野生鱼类不需要投喂饲料,且不像反刍动物那样产生甲烷;罐装后也无需冷藏。与此同时,海水升温正在改变鱼类分布;海洋吸收了全球变暖过量热量的约90%,使东北大西洋鲭鱼向更冷的冰岛方向移动;在欧盟等传统捕捞区捕捞仍持续的背景下,这放大了“鲭鱼战争”并加剧了存量压力。

过去15年,东北大西洋更广区域的捕捞量平均比科学建议高近40%。国际海洋探索委员会(ICES)建议今年将捕捞量再降低77%,否则将进一步削弱鱼群恢复机会;北东大西洋鲭鱼渔场在2019年遭暂停 MSC 认证。Marine Stewardship Council(MSC)官员Erin Priddle指出,国际治理的薄弱使得配额无法及时随气候驱动的分布变化而调整。North Atlantic Pelagic Advocacy Group执行主席Aoife Martin补充,企业在独立项目中尝试维持可持续实践,但这些NAPA项目计划于10月结束。相对而言,分布于智利、秘鲁、新西兰和澳大利亚的鲐鲭鱼在1990年代也曾被过度捕捞,在南太平洋区域渔业管理组织(SPRFMO)基于科学的限额下恢复,并于2019年获得MSC认证。

欧洲零售商已先行转向这一替代来源:Princes Group、Albert Heijn、Jumbo与Lidl已销售智利鲐鲭鱼;英国Waitrose宣布于4月末停止从苏格兰采购。尽管12月国家间协议已将东北大西洋捕捞量削减近一半,这一降幅仍被认为不足。Patagonia的Paul Lightfoot表示,供给切换对业务并不容易,但与其标准一致,且约耗时6个月才重新上架。该公司已在网上推出每罐US$9 的烟熏鲐鲭鱼,并计划下周通过Amazon.com旗下Whole Foods Market和Sprouts Farmers Market扩投放;年内还将再推一款更重口味版本。Lightfoot称该品种的风味和口感几乎与大西洋鲭鱼一致,营养表现也很强,即使生物学种类不同。

In a Bloomberg report dated February 28, 2026, Patagonia’s canned Atlantic mackerel, long sourced from the Bay of Biscay fishery shared by Spain and France, had been treated as a sustainability model but became unavailable as overfishing reduced stocks, forcing months of absence before switching to South Pacific jack mackerel from Chile. The article notes that canned fish is one of the lowest-carbon animal proteins: wild fish require no feed, do not emit methane like ruminants, and do not need refrigeration once canned. At the same time, warming seas are shifting fish distribution; oceans absorb about 90% of the excess heat from global warming, pushing Northeast Atlantic mackerel toward cooler waters near Iceland. Continued catches in EU and other traditional grounds intensified the “mackerel war” and stock pressure.

Over the past 15 years, catches across the broader Northeast Atlantic have averaged nearly 40% above scientific advice. The International Council for the Exploration of the Seas (ICES) has recommended a 77% cut this year to avoid weakening recovery prospects further, and Northeast Atlantic mackerel fisheries had their Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) certification suspended in 2019. Erin Priddle of MSC says weak international governance has not allowed quota systems to adjust quickly enough as climate-driven shifts accelerate. Aoife Martin, executive chair of the North Atlantic Pelagic Advocacy Group, said businesses are sustaining responsible sourcing through audited projects, but those NAPA programs are scheduled to end in October. By contrast, jack mackerel in waters near Chile, Peru, New Zealand, and Australia was overfished in the 1990s, then recovered under science-based limits by the South Pacific Regional Fisheries Management Organization (SPRFMO) and gained MSC certification in 2019.

European retailers have already moved first: Princes Group, Albert Heijn, Jumbo, and Lidl now sell Chilean jack mackerel, and UK supermarket Waitrose said it will stop sourcing from Scottish waters at the end of April. Although a December intergovernmental agreement cut Northeast Atlantic catches by nearly half, that reduction is still considered insufficient. Patagonia’s Paul Lightfoot said the supply shift was commercially difficult but matched company standards, and it took about six months to relaunch after absence from shelves. The company has launched smoked jack mackerel online at US$9 per can and plans rollout next week via Amazon.com’s Whole Foods Market and Sprouts Farmers Market, with a second more seasoned product later this year. Lightfoot says the taste and texture are almost the same as Atlantic mackerel and nutritional quality remains strong, even though the species is biologically different.

2026-03-02 (Monday) · cafc7445979c9e3f9d50e0ca3b44bed105b94689