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茶餐厅是香港独特的饮食文化象征,诞生于1950年代,当时大量难民从中国大陆涌入香港,催生了以廉价、快速为特色的大众餐饮。作为英国殖民地,香港广泛使用进口罐头和瓶装食品,厨师们将外来食材与本地口味融合,创造出午餐肉三明治、通粉汤配火腿、柠檬可乐等经典菜式。这种中西合璧的饮食风格不仅满足了工人阶层的需求,更成为香港城市身份认同的核心组成部分。

2019年香港大规模抗议活动及其后的政府打压导致大批港人移居海外,茶餐厅文化也随之在全球各地生根发芽。仅英国就有近十七万港人抵达,超过一百家提供茶餐厅菜式的食肆随之开业,包括伦敦东区的Hoko和时尚的Cafe Kowloon。澳洲悉尼、纽约、维也纳和汶莱等地也出现了港式茶餐厅。人类学博士生赖先生指出,这一代移民拥有更强烈的身份认同感,他们正透过茶餐厅向世界介绍香港文化。

茶餐厅的海外扩张不仅是饮食的输出,更是一场持续进行的文化实验。伦敦Hoko餐厅将叉烧与犹太百吉饼结合,创造出香港本土没有的新菜式;纽约厨师冼卢卡斯计划在纽约开设茶餐厅并出版茶餐厅食谱。然而在香港本地,茶餐厅却面临高租金和深圳竞争的压力,数量从十年前至2024年已下降百分之七。茶餐厅的核心精神在于吸收外来影响并使之成为自己的东西,这种无边界的变化正是其生命力所在。

Cha chaan tengs, Hong Kong's iconic budget diners, emerged in the 1950s to feed a booming factory workforce swelled by refugees from mainland China. As a British colony with access to global imports, Hong Kong's cooks fused Western canned goods and local flavors into distinctive dishes such as Spam sandwiches, macaroni soup with ham, and milk tea made from Ceylon black tea strained through cotton filters and mixed with evaporated milk. This East-meets-West culinary tradition became central to Hong Kong's cultural identity, embodying a city built on trade, migration, and creative adaptation.

Following the 2019 pro-democracy protests and the subsequent government crackdown, a wave of emigration has carried cha chaan teng culture across the globe. Nearly 170,000 Hong Kongers have relocated to the UK alone, spawning over 100 eateries serving cha chaan teng fare. Venues like Hoko in London's East End and the upcoming cha chaan teng by chef Lucas Sin in New York City reflect a generation's desire to preserve and share Hong Kong's culinary heritage. Anthropology researcher Samuel Lai notes that this diaspora generation possesses a heightened sense of identity, which they actively express through these cafes.

The global spread of cha chaan tengs represents an evolving cultural experiment rather than mere replication. Overseas operators are adapting menus to local tastes—Hoko's char siu bagel, a collaboration with a 171-year-old London bakery, exemplifies this creative fusion. Meanwhile, back in Hong Kong, the number of cha chaan tengs has declined by seven percent over the past decade due to rising rents and competition from Shenzhen. Chef Lucas Sin captures the essence of this phenomenon: cha chaan tengs are inherently built for evolution, their DNA rooted in absorbing outside influences and making them their own, making their international expansion a natural continuation of the spirit that defined Hong Kong itself. (Key numbers: 2024)

2026-08-07 (Friday) · 459f9b646bcf11d74bedfcb31ba247fef6c922fb